Why use 230 volts

And half the country is 50Hz, the other 60Hz, apparently the result of German versus US equipment back in the s. The United States power grid is much less well integrated, but all over North America the voltage is a nominal volts. Actual voltage at the wall outlet or light switch in any system can vary by plus or minus 5 to 10 percent.

By far most of the world uses volts. Of course, all over the world power poles or underground lines transmit power at much higher voltages. This color-coded map showing various electrical plug types used around the world. The electric power coming into a North American home or business is actually volts, which is then split into two volt lines normally a split-phase three-wire system. The volt outlets are for lighting, small appliances, and other devices TV set, computer, toaster, etc.

The oven, cooking range, air conditioner, electric water heater, EV charger, and other high-power devices use the full volts, using special grounded plugs and outlets that are larger than the volt type.

In Europe the normal power outlets are volts and the high-power appliances are fed volts formerly volts. But Why? But why, you ask, is there a volt standard in North America and a volt one in Europe? The exact reasons are not certain, but there are a few good candidates.

The first answer, and the one most people cite, is Thomas Edison. Although he was not the first person to invent the light bulb, Edison is remembered as the inventor because he did not just invent the incandescent light bulb, he invented a superior one.

And he also invented an entire system to make his light bulb work. It was just part of a power package: generator, main feeder, distribution lines, house wiring, and the light bulbs.

And what voltage worked best with his light bulb? Answer two may or may not be true, but some people promote it. Or maybe the two answers actually go together. Arc light came before incandescent light. It was too bright and dangerous to use indoors, but it was used for a while in some cities outdoors. A standard arc light operated at 50 or 55 volts. But that voltage was too low to be efficient.

Usually two arc lamps were used in series, meaning a voltage of or volts. So or volts became a norm even before the light bulb showed up. The AC cycle rate varied a lot in the early days of AC power, varying from 40 to hertz, before 50Hz and 60Hz became the standards used today. The chief difference is the amount of current drawn is cut in half when you double the voltage. Most pool pumps are connected using 12 gauge wire, which is rated for up to 20 amps. The reason there is a current limit is because as you increase the current, the wire heats up more.

As it heats up, it increases its resistance, and so the motor will draw even more current to compensate, which causes more heating, and also causes your motor to heat up more, and shortens the life of the motor.

Even if you only draw 15 amps at volts, your wire will heat up more than if you draw 7. Whether in North America or Europe, the electric grid does not run on or volts, it runs on much higher voltages. Closer to where it is used, there are substations which lower the voltage to typically 7, to 14, volts single phase for local distribution.

The main difference between Europe and North America is that in Europe, the power is typically distributed to buildings at only volts over 2 wires, whereas in N. America it is distributed at both and volts over 3 wires. While it is true that volts is more efficient over long distances, at that voltage the distances involved are generally only a few hundred feet, the distance from the transformer to the building.

It has nothing to do with the grid, which spans hundreds or thousands of miles. Check the motor label. If it is a only, then you need to buy a different motor or set your circuit up for Amperage at volts says What happens is it is drawing 24 to 28 amps at volts with a load. Installed new wet end and seals per XPS motor and pump.

It blew the circuit relay way before I put new wet end on. Soldered new relay and works again. Pumps and starts like crazy. Start cap checks fine. Is it possible the run and start are engaged due to the centrifugal relay inside the motor. I checked springs and contacts look clean. The mechanism you hear engaging when you start the motor.

And disengages when you turn it off. Motor turns free and no noise. It will get hot and voltage has always been wired for volts. I am leaning toward maybe running on start winding only. Unless centrifugal switch has an issue. Winding seem to bright colored no signs of water in motor. I removed the stater and checked all the connections and start switch and start cap. Starting to think this motor has always run borderline. All the jets and returns are wide open as well. Hello Tim — I reached out for some help from Century and their senior tech replied with the below response:.

If the start cap is ok, it, and the start winding, are not staying in the circuit. Before going any further, we need to know the part number, and the actual voltage at the motor terminal board when it is running. The previous was but before that I had a therefore I do have the wiring option in the box where the pump wires in.

I have found that the new pump is running hot in temperature and cutting out. I took the end cap off and ran it all day with no problem, put it back on and it overheats and cuts out. Would using v produce less internal heat? There's a good chance the actual voltage on your outlet is somewhere in between and it's even possible the voltage is even lower than say, Add a comment.

Active Oldest Votes. Two issues: In the world of electrical power devices, there is a "Distribution Voltage" that your utility is providing to you, and there is a "Utilization Voltage" that your devices are designed to work on.

They are not the same values, because it is EXPECTED that there will be a "voltage drop" that takes place between the utility transformer and the point at which the device connects due to the resistance of the wire between them. Distribution voltage levels have changed over the years. Here in the US we don't know where you are , V was an old original standard going back to the s.

Some time around the s, as part of one of Roosevelt's "New Deal" programs called the "REA" Rural Electrification Act , power lines were run out to farms and small communities all across the country.

So for residential single phase distribution, the official voltage is actually VAC. But because old habits die hard, and because SOME utilities never actually changed, "V" is a common term still used all over the place. It's actually somewhat rare for it to actually BE V. Generically, it's all referred to as being the " nominal " voltage; , , all being relatively close enough. Improve this answer.

JRaef JRaef It was also DC. A bump was made to V etc. RMS AC so you could keep using the same light bulbs. Subsequently there were bumps to and today, with streetcars at but they remain DC. From my understanding the voltage has risen to reduce the size of electrical wire.

An increase in volts decreases Amps. Alk for non-ohmic loads it does. So the power supplies inside computers etc. ChrisH -- that's true for the load , but not for the transmission line , which is a small part of the overall load.

The higher the voltage on the transmission line, the lower the current for a given amount of power. So higher voltage means less current, hence, smaller wires. PeteBecker yes, I realise that.

I deliberately stuck to the consumer end as Alk's comment was about the voltage delivered to the consumer, not the transmission line.